for the ones who stood their ground
I wasn’t thinking about competence when I made this dish. But as I smacked away at the beautifully made strozzapreti (from Semolina Artisanal Pasta here in town), slicked with a simple sauce of fennel sausage, preserved lemon, and chopped kale, I felt gratitude for the curiosity, acquisition of skill, and itch to improve that made it possible. As our country considers whether to elect a new Government, at a time when excellence in that realm seems positively exotic, perhaps it would be fitting to reaffirm our commitment to competence. At least, let’s not take it for granted and let’s celebrate it where we find it.
Pair it with a Dolcetto d’Alba or a Nebbiolo and Harder, Better, Faster by Daft Punk.
The day before you would like to cook and serve the pasta:
Take one pound of ground pork shoulder, mix in about 1 tablespoon of toasted fennel seeds, one or two teaspoons of salt, 3/4 teaspoon of champagne or white wine vinegar, a clove of finely chopped garlic, and, I hope, some red pepper flakes. Chill the mixture in a covered container.
When you’re ready to make the pasta:
Start the water boiling for your pasta. (The additional starch you will get from a well made semolina-based pasta will improve the texture of the sauce.)
Fry the crumbled sausage in a Dutch oven. Once it’s almost cooked through, throw in a couple of handfuls of chopped kale, and a couple of tablespoons of chopped preserved lemon. Set aside and keep warm.
Salt your boiling water and cook 10 oz. of pasta. Several minutes before your pasta is al dente, add about a 1/2 cup of starchy pasta water to your Dutch oven, now back over medium-high heat, and finish the strained pasta in there for the last 2-4 minutes on its way to al dente.
Check the sauce for seasoning, mindful that you will want to add some salty pecorino when you serve the dish. If you want to add a little more heat with a pinch of red pepper flakes or other dry chiles, and maybe amplify the seasoned meat with a jot of fennel pollen, you are unlikely to regret it.
